If you live in a slightly older home, such as mine, you occasionally might want to know which circuit breaker or fuse controls a particular outlet. Besides making it more convenient to disable the power for repairs, some of us have to deal with easily overloaded circuits that weren’t meant for all of the modern gadgetry we depend on.

Every homeowner can benefit from having a good map to their home outlets and circuit breakers, and a PDF scan of this map can make it extremely convenient to find two years later when you forgot you ever made it.

My Map

Last week my wife was asking if she could run her Jiffy Steamer in the bathroom, or if it would trip the breaker. I remembered making my cheat sheet, so I simply brought up Spotlight on my Mac and typed in “home circuit” and was rewarded with this document:

It’s nothing fancy, but it gets the job done. I quickly scrolled to the bathroom and identified the circuit that she was using. A quick scroll through the other rooms showed that she would be safe as long as she turned off the air conditioner in the bedroom.

Making a Circuit Map

There’s a little bit of process involved here, and it helps if you have someone else to help you.

Get a notepad and scrawl a rough sketch of each room in your house that has electrical outlets, switches, and lights. Don’t forget the basement, garage, and attic. Draw a rough sketch of each electrical outlet/switch on the maps. You can see in the image above that I simply drew a little box for each outlet and a box with bumps on it for a set of switches.

Then, shut off a single breaker and go around the house to see everything that lost power. Take a small desk lamp with you or, better yet, a proper line voltage test light, and test every single outlet until you identify the ones that are off.

Every time you find an outlet or switch that is off, write the breaker number on its spot on your map. You can see that breaker 19a and breaker 7 both control the living room in my house.

Now turn that breaker on and then turn off the next breaker and repeat the whole process.

It may take ten or fifteen minutes to make the first round-trip, but with each new breaker you have fewer things to test. You really only need to test outlets or switches that have not been identified yet.

When you are done, scan in everything and give the file a nice long descriptive name. Throw in some keywords if you are indexing your files in some application.

Using the Circuit Map

If you are concerned about the load on a given circuit, you can go through the whole document and look for every matching number (such as the “19a” from my living room) to see how many devices are on that circuit.

If you need to shut down power to a switch or outlet for any reason, find its breaker on your map, shut off the breaker, and then test the outlet with your line voltage tester before you do anything else. Even though you know the right breaker, you must always double-check that the circuit is dead before performing work.

By the way, my wife has had that Jiffy Steamer for years, and she absolutely loves it—it probably ranks right next to her iPad as all-time coolest and most useful products.

My situation is worse—both my wife and I are musicians, to one degree or another. Throw in the fact that she is a music teacher and you can imagine just how many pages of sheet music there are filling bins and flexing cheap shelving in my house.

What do I have and Where is it?

The biggest problem we face is knowing what we have and where it is. I have hundreds and hundreds of pages of classical and jazz guitar sheet music, but if I need to find Villalobos’ Choros no. 1, where do I look?

Shortly after I bought my ScanSnap, I began scanning in all of my sheet music (I have left much of my wife’s collection untouched—I’m sure you’ll understand). In most cases, I simply hacked the spine off of the original book and fed the sheets through the scanner. Now, I have less paper in the house and my music is searchable.

In most cases I didn’t bother to run OCR on the documents since there is little in the way of printed words on most sheet music that is worth indexing. I did take care to name the files well.

If you ever hope to find your music on your computer, make sure you include at least the composer/artist and song title in the file name.

Is this really cutting down on paper?

Whenever I find what I’m looking for I might play it directly off of the computer screen, but it is more likely that I’ll print it out. Doesn’t this kind of negate the idea of removing paper from my home? Not really. Think about it—most sheet music is never played. We have books with hundreds of songs in them and we play only  a handful. That’s just the way it is.

The fact that I print out five or ten pages in a month does not negate the many hundreds of pages that were scanned and then recycled.

Great for Music Lessons

I started taking jazz lessons again a month or two back, and my teacher gave me some lead sheets, with all kinds of useful annotations on them. As soon as I was home, I scanned those babies in, so I would not risk losing the valuable information. I also went through all of my notes from prior lessons and scanned them in as well. These kinds of things are precisely the sorts of paper that tend to get lost in some mismash of unsorted music.

Now, I can type in “Four” in my favorite PDF library application and find the lead sheet for Miles Davis’ Four.

Maybe you don’t have that many notebooks full of music lesson notes, but when you have been trying (poorly) to learn for as many years as I have, those notebooks begin to proliferate. Just scan them all in, give them some good filenames, add some keywords to help, and you’re in business.

What about copyright?

It seems that the jury is still out on digitizing works you own. There’s one fellow who made a right awesome device for scanning in textbooks in minutes, by photographing the pages. That guy’s machine has spurred much debate about whether or not you have the right to digitize your own stuff.

On the one hand, you bought the book and paid for it, so it would seem that fair use covers this; on the other hand, publishers are eager to monetize digital media, reselling the same works to you if they can.

So, is Daniel Reetz’s butt-kickin’ book scanner legal?

That would depend on who you talk to, says Pamela Samuelson, a professor at University of California at Berkeley, who specializes in digital-copyright law. Trade publishers are almost certain to cry copyright infringement, she says, though it may not necessarily be the case.

Google was recently forced to pay $125 million to settle with angry book publishers and authors who claimed copyright infringement as a result of the search giant’s book-scanning project.

But not so individual users who already own the book, says Samuelson. If you scan a book that you have already purchased, it is “fine, and fair use,” she says. “Personal-use copying should be deemed to be fair, unless there is a demonstrable showing of harm to the market for the copyright at work,” says Samuelson.

(Source: wired.com)

Here’s another take on this:

Question

I bought a book for school, can I make a copy of the book for my own use to write on so I don’t write in the book and can get my money back when I return the book to the campus store.

Accepted Answer

You have the right to make a copy of the book you purchased as long as you are using the copy for your personal use. The copyright laws merely prevent you from making copies to sell or distribute.

(Source: justanswer.com)

Of course, if you go passing your PDF documents around to all of your friends, all bets are off.

Final thoughts
Music is a hobby that seems to accumulate great stacks of paper, but these music sheets are peculiar in that you only need one or two out of every hundred. Why not digitize the whole lot and keep those book shelves from sagging?

I am of the opinion that rather than allowing an application to shuffle your life randomly, why not do it the old fashioned way and move your documents into folders of your choosing?

This article discusses some of the advantages of old-school folder management and gives a few hints along the way.

Why bother?

By creating your own well thought out folder structure, you gain the following advantages:

• You can find something fairly easily without needing to launch the special app.
• You can copy reasonable subsets of your document sets to friends or for backups.
• Someone else can find something without needing the special app.
• You can place files in a common network drive that others can see, from PC, Linux, or Mac.
• You do not lose all of the metadata about your files if the document management app ceases to exist.

People have been managing their documents this way for decades, so this is not anything new. What is new, however, is that folks don’t necessarily see what flexibility they give up when they allow the computer to squirrel things away on their behalf.

What kind of folders?

In short, pick some categories of documents that you will be filing, and optionally pick a timeframe which to partition the folders. This mirrors what we do with paper folders, doesn’t it? We create dozens of manila folders with tabs, and optionally create subsets of these files by date (e.g. Receipts, 2009).

One key difference helps us: Computer folders enjoy one feature that their physical counterparts lack—they can be nested several layers deep.

A few examples are probably in order…

I like to keep several kinds of scanned documents relating to day to day home paperwork. Over time, it has become clear that I scan lots of receipts, health insurance papers, banking papers, bills, and … everything else.

As such, I created the following top-level folders: Banking, Bills, Health Insurance, Receipts, and Miscellaneous.

Over time, they start to get stuffed to the gills with things, especially the Bills and the Receipts folders. My answer to this was to split them out by date. Within each category folder I have subfolders by date. This is because some categories need lots of years, while others might not need to be broken down by date at all.

Digital photos are a different creature: I feel that the date of the photo is the most important piece of information, and subject matter is secondary. For this reason, I store my photos in a series of top-level folders labeled with the years.

With photos I have a three-level system: Year, Month, and Subject. For example, within the Photos folder there is a 2009 folder. That contains a 2009-02 folder, and that one contains a folder called Cats. There are many ways to arrange these, I have chosen this approach.

I like iPhoto as much as anyone, and I use it for my photos. The difference is that, for me, iPhoto only holds a copy of each photo—the original photos are all stored on a NAS using the file structure I describe above.

Put a little thought into it and come up with a system that works for you.

Closing thoughts

We are looking for ease of use here, as well as avoiding lock-in to some proprietary app. We also want it to be easy to back up specific bits of the data and share specific bits.

By looking at my example above, you can see how easy it would be to find a bill from 2009. By following a specific naming convention, you can see that each document is fairly descriptive as well. You don’t need DEVONthink or its brethren to tell you how to find the Allstate bill from June of 2009. In addition, the folder names are now easily searchable by my operating system, as are the filenames.

This might create extra work for you in the beginning, but do you really want to be at the mercy of someone else’s application?

Oh, and about making those folders? There are applications out there that can generate a bunch of folders for you following your own chosen rules. One I use is The Big Mean Folder Machine.  I wouldn’t want to depend on an automatic system for daily use, but as a one-time jump start, tools like this can work wonders.

Don’t forget to back up your files!